Returning to Moscow...
How do I sum up my thoughts from seeing this crazy city after so long?
I want to compare Moscow today to my stay in 1991. I won't do it justice but I'll try.
As I said in the first part/post, my friend and old Moscow roommate, Bill, was supposed to come, too. He couldn't and it's really too bad for a lot of reasons, but I was especially looking forward to having Bill with me since I was sure he would remember more from 1991 than I would. Anyone who's knows me knows my memory is awful (I remind myself of Flight of the Concords' song "Jenny"). Anyway, I digress. So, returning to Moscow.
Before arriving, I looked up how to get to my hotel from Sheremetyevo airport, which lies about 20 or so miles from the city. Then I learned about the "AeroExpress train," brand spanking new only since June 2008, it was beautiful and modern. In Soviet times (and long after), the choice from Sheremetyevo airport was either a suicidal taxi ride or a doing a chain of local buses before reaching the farthest metro stop. Now, with AeroExpress, people start within Sh.'s Terminal 2 (foreign arrivals/dep) to a metro stop just outside the metro's ring line, which separates the inner/outer parts of the city. Price was 250 r., well under a restaurant dinner. Yeah, can't say enough good about AeroExpress, a real boon for tourists. (Prague could use one)

I neglected to exchange any crowns to rubles in Prague. So at the airport the first goal was to find a cash machine. Had little care about exchange rates, only to get my hands on local currency before I do anything. My little travel tip is this: take note of the withdrawal choices on the cash machine screen. For me, the choices range from one lunch plate to one night in a nice hotel, no matter what country or currency I'm looking at. I chose the 2nd highest option, 7,000 rubles. I just looked it up...that's about 4,000 crowns or $200. My 7,000 r. about paid for all food, entertainment, metro and souvenirs. Yeah, the number's a sign of inflation, but that's another post.
Speaking of food, I ate in a restaurant exactly one time over my 3 days. I'm sort of proud of that. Instead of dining out, my first night I found a city supermarket so I stocked my hotel room frig. While sightseeing I mostly ate "street food" (as our India trip friends could only expect). Lots of carbs: pastries, pirozhki, blini, ice cream.
The one restaurant dinner I had was shashlik (sorry Bill, but it was sooo good!). Shashlik is skewered lamb, very seasoned. It's a Georgian dish and a favorite exotic dish for Moscovites. Shashlik was my favorite street vendor food back in 1991, so the taste brought back some fond memories.

Touring around, sightseeing also brought back some vivid memories...and then again, it didn't. Red Square, St. Basils cathedral, GUM department store, all very stirring at first sight. I wandered Red Square and watched tourists every day, maybe twice a day.

However, going into GUM, the behemoth department store lining Red Square long-ways was most mind-blowing.
GUM
In 1991: GUM is an acronym in Russian that meant "government universal store") was dark, dank and dreary. And empty. Back in 1991, void store shelves was just a normal sight, whether in GUM, the butcher or the bakery.
Today is different. Same acronym, but in Russian it's is now "Main universal store." GUM is all about splendor and indulgence. Some stores I at least recognized: Dior, Articoli, Emporio Armani, Louis Vuitton, Breguet, Cartier and that is just the first floor of 3...you can lose serious wealth in this megamall. Here is a link to their store map, but it takes time to load.

To compare, here is GUM in 1893. It's a beautiful building inside; the splendor was there all along. But today - the stores - wow.

The monument of mottos.
Karl Marx and his famous "Proletariats of the world, unite!"

Recognize this place? In 1991, the lines to the one, newly opened McD's went around the city block. Today, they're everywhere. You want fries with that, Karl?
And another chain appears below. I also spotted a T.G.I.F in the airport.
Lenin's mausoleum.
I went ahead and saw him, my first time. The line was much shorter this visit; I only waited an hour to briskly walk through and around him. Vladimir Ilyich is looking very good for 140.
Well, I think that's it. Getting tired of writing. For more pictures, and what was the most fun of my trip, please see the video "
We Miss You Bill".